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Oil Pan Upgrade: Ford 6.7L Power Stroke

Early 6.7L Power Stroke (Scorpion) diesel engines came with a composite oil pan. These are subject to leaking over time. Without an upgrade, you’ll be dripping your oil on the ground as it passes though the engine.
Early 6.7L Power Stroke (Scorpion) diesel engines came with a composite oil pan. These are subject to leaking over time. Without an upgrade, you’ll be dripping your oil on the ground as it passes though the engine.
After the 6.7L Scorpion Motor was introduced in late 2010, it was hailed throughout the 2011 model year as an all-new and revolutionary diesel. While it was—and still is—an impressive engine, even with all the power of Ford behind the development, a few bugs needed to be worked out.

One of these bugs was an unfortunate leaking of oil from the new engine’s space-age composite oil pan. These oil pans had a new ¼-turn drain plug for the main sump, and experience showed that after a few oil changes, the pans began to leak. The result was nasty oil spots, whenever and wherever you parked your truck. Not cool—and quite messy—to say the least.

Ford engineers soon solved the problem on later model 6.7L engines, but, unfortunately, Ford never used a recall to fix the leak on those early engines.

Luckily, if you own an early 2011-12 Super Duty with a 6.7L that leaves a little oil to mark its parking spot, there is an easy fix: Ford’s solution was to go back to a stamped steel oil pan with a threaded drain plug. Now all of the latest 6.7Ls contain this old-school style pan, which proves that sometimes old school is still the best solution.

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I stopped in at Domestic Diesel in Chino, CA to follow along as they fixed the drip on a customer’s 2011 F350. The fix took less than half a day, even with constant interruptions for photos, and, after the pan upgrade, the owner now reports that he no longer leaves oil spots behind every time he parks the rig.

Follow along and we’ll show you just how simple it is to stop the drip from your Ford. DW

*A quick note concerning this build is that Domestic Diesel offers a 6.7L pan upgrade package with EOM pan and aftermarket metric bolts. The cost is significantly less than from the dealer, and they stock a few at all times*

The 6.7L composite pan might be made of Space Age plastics, but it leaks like a Stone Age tar pit. The ¼ turn drain plug just won’t seal, and your truck marks its spot every time you park it.
1. The 6.7L composite pan might be made of Space Age plastics, but it leaks like a Stone Age tar pit. The ¼ turn drain plug just won’t seal, and your truck marks its spot every time you park it.
2. In this view, you can see the oil pan drain leak area (right), and a spot from oil dripping off the filter (left). This filter drip is likely from past oil changes, as filter leaking on the 6.7L is usually only reported when the filters are not properly installed.
2. In this view, you can see the oil pan drain leak area (right), and a spot from oil dripping off the filter (left). This filter drip is likely from past oil changes, as filter leaking on the 6.7L is usually only reported when the filters are not properly installed.
3. Our mechanic, Byron Hermosillo, drained the pan, reinstalled the plug to stop most dripping and then removed it from the engine.
3. Our mechanic, Byron Hermosillo, drained the pan, reinstalled the plug to stop most dripping and then removed it from the engine.
4. This close-up shows the failed pain drain plug. This was supposed to offer quick, ¼ turn removal for faster fleet oil change times. The jury is out on if the plug or pan caused the leak, but changing the O-ring doesn’t help. Only a new pan will fix the oil leak.
4. This close-up shows the failed pain drain plug. This was supposed to offer quick, ¼ turn removal for faster fleet oil change times. The jury is out on if the plug or pan caused the leak, but changing the O-ring doesn’t help. Only a new pan will fix the oil leak.
5. This view shows the inside of the composite pan (left) and the new stamped steel pan (right). Notice that the composite pan has an integrated gasket, making it a one-time use item.
5. This view shows the inside of the composite pan (left) and the new stamped steel pan (right). Notice that the composite pan has an integrated gasket, making it a one-time use item.
6. This view shows the outside of the composite pan (left) and the new stamped steel pan (right). The composite pan has a raised section opposite the drain plug. Without this, the steel pan holds a pint (1/2-quart) more oil. Also, notice that the composite pan has integrated bolts, which can’t be reused with the steel pan.
6. This view shows the outside of the composite pan (left) and the new stamped steel pan (right). The composite pan has a raised section opposite the drain plug. Without this, the steel pan holds a pint (1/2-quart) more oil. Also, notice that the composite pan has integrated bolts, which can’t be reused with the steel pan.
7. This view shows the outside of the composite pan, (top) and the new stamped steel pan bottom. The depth is about the same, but the drain plug position is in opposite corners.
7. This view shows the outside of the composite pan, (top) and the new stamped steel pan bottom. The depth is about the same, but the drain plug position is in opposite corners.
8. After removing the pan, Hermosillo wipes out the oil in the engine skit and then lets it sit for a while, so the oil in the engine can drip out into the catch pan. He then wipes it off again before installing the new pan, as any stray oil drips on the sealing surface during reassembly can cause a leak later.
8. After removing the pan, Hermosillo wipes out the oil in the engine skit and then lets it sit for a while, so the oil in the engine can drip out into the catch pan. He then wipes it off again before installing the new pan, as any stray oil drips on the sealing surface during reassembly can cause a leak later.
9. Using a silicon sealer rated for engine use, Hermosillo seals the new steel (don’t use your bathtub caulking on this one).
9. Using a silicon sealer rated for engine use, Hermosillo seals the new steel (don’t use your bathtub caulking on this one).
10. The new steel oil pan is reinstalled on the engine after cleaning the mounting surface of the block with an appropriate solvent to ensure a clean seal. The bolts are first lightly snugged down and then tightened to spec.
10. The new steel oil pan is reinstalled on the engine after cleaning the mounting surface of the block with an appropriate solvent to ensure a clean seal. The bolts are first lightly snugged down and then tightened to spec.
11. Once the new pan has been installed along with a new oil filter—which is needed to fill the engine with oil—check for leaks and then hit the road. Note that to get the oil level on the dip stick to the fill line, you will need to use one extra pint (1/2-quart), as the new steel pan has more volume than the old composite unit.
11. Once the new pan has been installed along with a new oil filter—which is needed to fill the engine with oil—check for leaks and then hit the road. Note that to get the oil level on the dip stick to the fill line, you will need to use one extra pint (1/2-quart), as the new steel pan has more volume than the old composite unit.

Sources:

Domestic Diesel
909-627-0500
domesticdiesel.com

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